To see Peace Poles I have made, click Home. Most of the ones I make are higher end ones, usually out of stone or metal, but I've been told that the photos of them can be useful for getting ideas for being creative with your own.
How to make your own peace pole
This page tells how to turn a wooden post into a peace pole. A scrap 2 by 4 was used for a couple of these photos. I prefer larger wood for peace poles though. A 4 by 4 will do, but a 6 by 6 is better. For tips about choosing the wood, click choosing lumber. To see a photo that shows the difference between a 4 by 4 and a 6 by 6 and why you would want the larger one, click Plaques. It is a page about the copper plaques and caps that I make for people to put on their own wood, but even if you are not doing that it covers information about what size wood to choose.
Getting Text on the Pole
This usually is the first thing about which people are concerned. There are several options for accomplishing it. One is making your own templates for free as described below.
On a computer printer, printout a full-size template of the translations. A normal printer will not print out anything longer than a 14 inch long legal page. Divide the translation into three sections, each shorter than 14 inches, and then tape the three pages together to make one long template, like the one seen below left.
Set the templates on the pole. Drag a pencil or ballpoint pen on top of the letters heavily enough to leave an impression in the wood. The impression is the rough guide for your paintbrush. You can either draw the outline of the letters or just draw the center line of each one. In the photo below right, I drew the center line of each as a guide for my brushstrokes.
For some languages that do not use our alphabet, following the center line might not provide all the information you need. It can be more useful to outline the characters so that you see when the brush stroke should be wide or tapered or have the end squared off. But for most languages, it is much easier to run the brush along the center line.
Normally there would be only a light impression in the wood made by the pressure of the pen or pencil on the paper, with no actual pencil lead coloring the wood. But that did not show up well in these photos. So I ran a pen through the impressions to make them visible in the photo.
There is no reason to be afraid of languages like Chinese and Korean. When I first was working with Chinese, I sought out native Chinese people who could help me learn about their text. If I asked them to write a certain word for me, they pulled out a ball point pen and jotted it out on a scrap of paper the same way I would jot English. Calligraphy and typesetting in any language are more precise and exacting than handwriting. But hand painted letters in Chinese and other languages have the same intelligibility as in English. Just trace a good pattern and they will be fine.
Click paint for information on preservatives for the wood and choosing paint for the text.
Paint the letters over the lines with a small paint brush. An artist's supply or a craft shop has such brushes. You might want one kind of brush for languages like English that evolved on printing presses and another kind for languages like Chinese that evolved on the end of a brush.
The brush in the top of this photo is the one I find most useful. It is called a "quarter inch angular shader." It is a flat brush. The square edge allows a precision useful in duplicating text. Springing for an expensive one of these can make a big difference in how your pole turns out. This isn't the place to cut corners. Buy cheap wood and cheap paint if you want, but pay $20 and get a good brush.
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Paint isn't the only way to get text onto wood. An example of an alternative was sent to me by a woman who used a magnifying glass for that, a natural form of Pyrography (artistic burning). That can be seen at burning text. However, paint takes less time and lasts longer.
Cutting the Top
Some people leave the top square. Others put a cap on it (like the one in the photo below right that I make). Others cut a pyramid shape in the top. If you are cutting it, you should do that before you do anything else.
Cutting a pyramid into the top of the peace pole is not hard to do. You don't even have to have the right tools, although they help. Just measure, cut carefully, and if it doesn't come out right, you can cut another inch off while trying again. Someday when I get time I'll post photos of this process. It can be done with a circular saw or a hand saw. And the measuring can be done with any ruler if you don't have something that marks a 45 degree angle.
Planting the Peace Pole
In the world of peace poles, they don't say "install" or "erect." They say "plant" peace poles. To see some ways to plant peace poles, click peace pole planting.
If you did a process similar to this, but did it on an aluminum or fiberglass post, with the right sanding and priming and the right kind of paint (not house paint), it could last fifteen or more years. House paint on wood lasts seven to ten years, possibly twelve. If longevity is important to you, my resin peace poles are not painted and will last three or four times as long as painted wood, depending on the setting, and they are only $155.